Life in Bosnia: Hiking in Grabovica

Life in Bosnia: Hiking in Grabovica

This article was submitted by ISA BELLE, a Dutch student studying in Mostar, Herzegovina.
45 minutes north of Mostar is an area perfect for hiking, called Diva Grabovia. It is a perfect example of Karst landscape, defined by layers of bedrocks. If you are not familiar with this geographical term, it’s just incredibly beautiful nature with high mountains and the magical turquoise Neretva River flowing in between. People made an effort to turn this area into a recreational place where you can have the most wonderful hikes.

I have been there three times now, and all of those experiences have been great. The paths are well marked; at some places there are metal ‘ropes’ to help you over dangerous passages. There are some pretty tough parts though, so you should be fit to some extent. Don’t be discouraged, take your time and make sure you are down again before dark. However, you may want to try staying in one of those cozy huts along the road and of course have an unforgettable night in the middle-of-nowhere. By the end of the day, the beautiful nature and tough physical exercise will bring you total relaxation and a few grams off your weight.

The most amazing thing happened to me on my second hike when I met a group of older local people. They were eating, drinking, talking and enjoying themselves in the first hut on our way up the mountain. The huts were small and basic but cozy. There was an ax and a small stove which could run on fire made from your own freshly-chopped firewood. There were plates, cups, forks, knives and even instant coffee, an amazing windfall for an exhausted hiker.

We greeted the people sitting by the hut and eventually sat down to have a conversation with them since two people from our group could speak the local language. We were exhausted after the hike, thus we could not refuse their offering us warm coffee. Our coffee was served in the cutest china I had ever seen and accompanied by Turkish delight, ended with delicious baklava. It was a fantastic experience with the incredible hospitality of the local people. The drink, sweets and the warmness of the people replenished our body and provided the needed energy and drive to walk up the mountain.

It’s peaceful and satisfying to hike in stunning nature, smell the fresh air, enjoy amazing views, feeling sweat drops on your back, chatting with friendly local people and eating delicious cevapi afterwards. If I could just do this every weekend, I would be the happiest person on earth.

Getting there from Mostar (45 minutes) is possible only by car because it is a remote area. Take the road to Sarajevo and watch carefully until you see a road sign ‘Grabovia’ which directs you to the left, over the Neretva. Once you cross the Neretva, turn right and be patient until you see a little meadow where you can park your car and where you’ll also find a sign indicating the beginning of one of many possible hiking routes. I recommend you to go with someone who have hiked there already or know the area well just for your own safety.